Walking around Cómpeta

 The sun was already burning my neck quite a bit when I pulled my rental car, a compact Fiat Panda, into the car park outside Cómpeta. It was June, and the scent of bougainvillea floated through the warm air. Cómpeta is about 650 metres up, you feel that right away. No long, strenuous climbs today, but a few routes for people who like to get out into nature without planning an alpine expedition. I've got three options for you, from easy to a bit more challenging. Ideal if, like me, you prefer to take it easy but still want to see something. That high altitude, mind you, provides slightly milder temperatures here than on the coast, which is quite welcome in the summer. ### The character of Cómpeta Cómpeta is one of those classic white villages, but high up in the hills. One of the `pueblos blancos` of the [Axarquía](/en/blog/walking-inspiration-axarquia), with narrow, steep streets, flower boxes on the walls, and small bars everywhere. What really sets this village apart is the wine. They make the famous `vino dulce` here, a sweet dessert wine, perfect after a good meal. You see vineyards everywhere, even on the outskirts of the village. It's less touristy than Frigiliana, which I wrote about before, and because of that, it feels a bit more 'real' Spanish here. The peace is palpable, even with the tourists wandering around during the day. No big resorts, no loud music, just the sound of birds and occasionally a villager walking by. Cómpeta is also known as a base for hikers. Many routes start here, the village is right next to the Sierra de Almijara natural park. This means you can walk straight into nature from the village, without having to drive first. There are a few shops selling hiking maps and some basic equipment. I even saw a place that specialises in local honey, a tip for anyone wanting to take something authentic home.  ### A stroll through the village centre Start your walk at the Plaza Almijara, the lively heart of Cómpeta, where the church stands. From here you walk through the narrow, winding streets upwards, towards the `viewpoint` at the top of the village. You'll encounter stairs everywhere, so flat shoes aren't a luxury. Along the way, you'll see the details of traditional architecture: wrought-iron balconies, colourful tiles, and often shaded courtyards. Walk along Calle San Antonio, one of the main streets, and then turn into any alley. That's how you discover the real atmosphere. This route takes about 30-45 minutes, depending on how often you stop for a photo or a peek into one of the small shops. The endpoint is the viewpoint of Cómpeta, where you have a beautiful view over the valley and the Mediterranean Sea in the distance. On clear days you can even see the coast of Morocco, but today it was a bit too hazy. From the viewpoint, you can then descend via another route towards the lower part of the village. You'll pass some of the older houses in the village, some with walls that have stood for centuries. Keep your eyes open for the small mosaics and plaques that tell the village's history. Before you know it, you're back on Plaza Almijara, ready for a well-deserved drink or snack.  ### From Cómpeta into nature For those who want to hike a bit more, ### Local bites and drinks After all that walking, you've earned something. ### Practicalities for your trip You'll get to Cómpeta easiest by car. From Nerja, it's about a 40-minute drive, the road is I noticed that -maintained, albeit a bit winding towards the mountains. You can park on the outskirts of the village; there are a few free parking spaces near the entrance to the centre. Follow the `P` signs on the edge of the village. Driving into the village itself isn't a good idea, the streets are narrow and steep. It's certainly not a village for people with mobility issues; there are many stairs and slopes. Cómpeta is harder to reach by public transport. There's a bus from Vélez-Málaga, but the frequency is low, and the travel time is long. A taxi is an option, but pricey. So a rental car is your best bet. For the walks, I'd recommend taking at least a litre of water per person, especially in the summer months. And don't forget good sunscreen, the sun is powerful on the mountain slopes during the day. ### The best time for Cómpeta The best time to visit Cómpeta is [in spring](/en/blog/rio-chillar-hiking-spring) (April-May) or autumn (September-October). Then the temperatures are mildest for walks, and nature is at its most beautiful, in full bloom or with autumn colours. In summer, especially in July and August, it can get hot, even at this altitude. If you're planning a longer walk, go early in the morning, or later in the afternoon. Cómpeta is also nice in the evening, when the sun sets and the village comes alive with locals taking a `paseo` and sitting on the terraces. Every year in August there's the `Noche del Vino` festival, a big celebration of wine. It gets extremely busy then, and parking is almost impossible, but the atmosphere is unique. Personally, I find the early morning the nicest. It's still quiet then, you hear the birds singing and you can breathe in the cool mountain air. Grab a coffee, walk around, and you'll see the village waking up. That's the perfect start to your day here. ### What a lot of people miss If you walk through the alleys of Cómpeta,