Restaurants and mornings in Nerja

My first coffee with a view

I could already smell the fresh coffee as I walked down the stairs to my apartment. The sun was just starting to rise. Anyway, my morning ritual always begins at Cafe Bar El Ancla, with a perfect cappuccino and that unmatched view of the Balcón de Europa. That coffee costs me €1.80 every time—a bargain for such a view. There I sat, with my newspaper and the fresh sea air. I saw a group of fishermen checking their nets. By the way, yesterday, on a local friend's recommendation, I ended up at El Pulguilla, at Calle Almirante Ferrándiz 26. It's a classic here, especially known for its fresh fish and seafood. Honestly, the tapas they serve here are really top-notch. You always get a free tapa with your drink, which I think is a lovely tradition. I tried the fried anchovies and the gambas pil-pil; both were wonderfully fresh. What I didn't expect was how busy it was; it's already packed by 7:30 PM, so a reservation is definitely a good idea. Incidentally, another favorite of mine is Restaurante Pacomari on Calle Gloria 4. This is a slightly fancier restaurant, but still affordable. A main course is around €18-€25. I've eaten the paella there several times, and it's always fantastic. The atmosphere in the inner courtyard is also very pleasant, ideal for a quiet evening. What many people don't know is that Pacomari also has an excellent wine list with many local wines from the Axarquía region. Well, if you ask for advice, they're happy to help you. I once tried the "Botani," a dry muscatel, which went perfectly with the fish. Anyway, for those who want something other than standard tapas, Erase Una Vez on Calle Carabeo 41 is a good option. They serve Mediterranean dishes with a modern twist. I recently had fantastic tuna tartare there for €14.50. They often have specials with seasonal produce. The location, a bit higher up, also offers a nice view.

Special spots in the alleyways

Well, after that fantastic coffee, I wanted to explore the smaller streets of Nerja. I love getting really lost. I turned into an alley, away from the busy tourist promenade. There was a nice, small restaurant, with only a wooden sign that was barely noticeable. It was called "El Rinconcito." That name is common here, so I didn't really pay attention to it at first. Something that did stand out was the smell of herbs drifting out. Honestly, I was initially looking for the churros place my neighbor recommended. But I noticed that I walked past and saw a man inside cutting olives. He looked like a local. This really piqued my curiosity. Incidentally, the prices on the sign were surprisingly low. A glass of Rioja for €2.50 is rare in this neighborhood. I decided to stay. Outside at a small table, some older Spaniards were already chatting. I thought that was a good sign. I ordered the berenjenas con miel — aubergines with honey. That's a dish you often find here, but the execution varies wildly from place to place. By the way, here it was perfectly crispy, not too sweet, with a hint of lemon. Seriously, the best I'd had in months. The owner, who also turned out to be the cook, came over to chat. He told me he'd been at this location for thirty years on Calle Carabeo, a narrow side street off the Balcón de Europa. His specialty is pulpo a la gallega, and he makes it on Wednesdays. I'm writing that tip down straight away for my next visit. I also had a glass of vermut there. That's a drink you see a lot here, especially before a meal. It really gave me that feeling of authentic Spain. I ended up paying €8.50 for my tapas and drinks. That's a real bargain, especially so close to the center.

Where do you enjoy the best paella?

I noticed that after all that exploring, you naturally get hungry. I've noticed I'm crazy about paella. Here on the Costa del Sol, there are countless places where you can eat this traditional dish. Still, there are two restaurants in Nerja that I really want to recommend to you, though they differ quite a bit in their approach. The first is Restaurante Pacomari, located at Calle Castilla Pérez 19. They serve fantastic seafood paella here. The portions are generous and they prepare everything on the spot; you often see the big pans already at the entrance. The price varies, but expect around €18-€22 per person, depending on the ingredients. I've noticed that at Pacomari, you often have to be patient. This is because the paella is prepared fresh, which usually takes about 25-30 minutes. A good tip: order some tapas beforehand as a starter. The fried aubergine with honey there is really a must-try. Then there's El Pulguilla, at Calle Almirante Ferrándiz 26. This place is famous for its lively atmosphere and large selection of fish dishes. Their paella is also excellent, although I personally find the texture of the rice at Pacomari slightly better. The price is similar, often around €20 per person. What I like about El Pulguilla is that they often serve a free tapa with your drink. That's a nice extra. The service here is faster, which is handy if you have less time. Both restaurants offer a good wine list with local wines; definitely try a Rueda. I've noticed that if you'd rather cook yourself, you can buy fresh ingredients at Nerja's market. You can get fish, for example, at the Mercado Municipal on Calle La Cruz. There you'll find everything for a perfect paella. I've tried it a few times at home, but it's still an art. For the most authentic paella experience, I'd still go for Pacomari. The taste experience there is just a bit more intense. But if you're in a hurry or looking for a livelier setting, then El Pulguilla is also good. Both are fortunately found in the center of Nerja.

My secret spot for an evening meal

After a busy day or a long golf session, I like to find a spot for a relaxed evening meal. One of my favorites in Nerja is El Refugio. This restaurant is a bit hidden in a side street, Calle Granada 44 to be precise, but it's worth finding. I've been coming here for a few years now. The interior is simple but cozy, with a rustic feel. I always reserve, especially this season. They don't have many tables, you see. You can call them at +34 952 52 03 33. I always go for the chuletas de cordero, lamb chops that is, with rosemary and garlic. They're really perfectly tender and full of flavor. The portions are quite large, so you'll definitely go home full. A main course for the lamb chops costs around €22, depending on the daily price. There are also excellent side dishes available. I've noticed that their selection of local wines is also worth it. I usually have a bottle of red Rioja with it, costing around €18-€25 here. The staff are always friendly and attentive, without being pushy. I really appreciate that. It's always smart to stick to Spanish dinner times. They usually only open around 7:30 PM for dinner. If you come too early, you'll be sitting alone. I usually go around 8:00 or 8:30 PM; then the atmosphere is already good. The distance from the center, like the Balcón de Europa, is about a ten-minute walk. That's perfectly doable. Parking can be a challenge in Nerja, so I prefer to walk. And after dinner, you can then take a leisurely stroll through the streets.

How to get everywhere without a car

Nerja is quite compact, which makes it ideal for exploring on foot. Most restaurants in the center are within a ten to fifteen-minute walk of each other. This also applies to the beaches and the Balcón de Europa; everything is easily walkable. So you definitely don't need to rent a car if you're only staying in Nerja itself. If you do want to go further, consider the local bus service. The "urbano" bus line runs through Nerja and to Frigiliana, a perfect day trip. A bus ticket to Frigiliana currently costs about €1.20 for a single journey. You'll find the bus stop at Plaza de la Ermita, near the main street. For longer distances, for example to Málaga or other coastal villages, there are Alsa buses. Nerja's bus station is on Avenida de Pescia. The bus to Málaga airport, Terminal 3, takes about 50 minutes and costs around €4.50. These buses run fairly frequently, usually every hour. Interestingly enough, a taxi is also an option, especially for the evening. Taxis wait at the Balcón de Europa and at the bus station. The prices are reasonable; a ride within Nerja usually costs between €6 and €10, depending on the distance. Interestingly enough, agree on the price before you get in to avoid surprises. If you really want a bit more freedom without driving yourself, consider a scooter. There are various rental companies in Nerja that offer scooters from about €30-€40 per day. It's good to know that parking can be difficult during high season, but with a scooter, you sometimes have a bit more flexibility. I've even rented one myself sometimes; it was perfectly fine. Rental bikes are also popular. You'll find several rental points in the center, often for about €10-€15 per day for a regular bike. If you want a bit more power, e-bikes are also available for rent; expect to pay around €25-€30 per day. The hills around Nerja can be quite challenging sometimes, so an e-bike isn't a luxury then. Worth it. Just do it.