Walking through the Río Chillar gorge

 ### Walking through the Río Chillar gorge I parked my rental, a compact Seat Ibiza for €25 a day, on the edge of Frigiliana and started my first solo hike. The Río Chillar gorge is an experience in itself, and especially [in spring](/en/blog/rio-chillar-hiking-spring)—April is an ideal month—the water level is just right. You will be walking through the riverbed, so good preparation is essential. Think of shoes that can get wet but still provide grip. I wear Merrell shoes myself, bought them online for €120, but flip-flops are absolutely out of the question here. The walk often starts via the 'fábrica de luz,' which is the old power station you reach by following the Camino de los Almachares from Nerja. From there, it is about an hour over an unpaved road to the actual starting point of the river walk. You will quickly realize it is a popular route with locals and tourists alike. Because it was May 1st, Labour Day, I found it surprisingly busy, but the gorge is long enough to find your own peace and quiet. Once in the gorge, you will alternate between walking along the banks and wading through the water. It is truly like walking through a natural water park, with small waterfalls and pools everywhere. Take a small backpack, because you will need your hands to climb over rocks sometimes. Make sure you have water and something to eat, because you will not find any shops or bars along the way.  A waterproof bag for your phone and camera is not a bad idea either. The best parts are the narrow sections of the gorge, where the rock walls tower meters above you and the sunlight barely reaches the bottom. The water is colder here, but refreshing. I walked upstream for about three hours, until the gorge widened a bit—that was a good spot for me to turn back. The way back is just as fun, though you are now swimming or sliding with the current. It is a full-day activity, so definitely set aside five to six hours for it, including the approach. The reward for the effort? Beautiful nature and a unique way to cool down on a warm day. If you are planning to go on a public holiday, like Labour Day in Spain, start early to beat the biggest crowds. There is no entrance fee or official guide needed, and that makes it accessible for anyone who is a bit adventurous. Do not forget your sun cream, because even in the shade of the gorge, you will still catch some sun. ### Picnic spots along the Frigiliana route From Frigiliana to El Acebuchal, there is a lovely route that is just brilliant for a picnic. After about 45 minutes of walking along the paved paths and through the green valleys, you will come to a spot where the route runs alongside a small river. Here you will find a great little place to enjoy your snacks and drinks. Keep an eye out for the small side paths that lead to the bank; they are not always super clear, but they are worth the effort. Another good spot appears just after you have crossed the riverbed and the road winds uphill. Before the climb really starts, you will see a small, natural outcrop on your left. With a bit of luck, there is a fallen tree trunk here that works perfectly as a bench to catch your breath. The view here is gorgeous over the valley with its characteristic terraces and the white villages in the distance. Around the middle of the route, just before El Acebuchal comes into view, you will pass some abandoned farmhouses. Often you will find small, flat stone walls here that not only make for a pretty backdrop but are also perfect for laying out your packed lunch. Plus, they offer some shade, which is not a luxury, especially in the spring sun. Just make sure you take all your rubbish with you when you leave. If you do end up reaching El Acebuchal without having had a picnic, there are two restaurants there where you can grab a bite. Restaurante El Acebuchal is known for its rustic charm and local dishes, while Bar Restaurante El Acebuchal has a slightly simpler menu. Both offer the chance to sit inside or out under the parasols and enjoy reflecting on the walk. The road to El Acebuchal is perfectly fine by car, mind you, but the charm is definitely in the walk. You will not find many facilities along the way. For water, you can bring extra liter bottles, and some light snacks are always good to have with you. Think olives, almonds, or a sandwich with ham and cheese that you can get from one of the bakeries in Frigiliana. ### The path from Maro to the Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo In April, I walked part of the coastal route from Maro to the Acantilados de Maro-Cerro Gordo. This is a protected natural area, known for its impressive cliffs and small beaches. The starting point for this walk is at the eastern end of Playa de Maro. From the beach, you follow the path that winds up along the cliffs. A good option is to allow about two to three hours for a single trip, depending on how often you stop for a photo or a dip. The path is generally pretty clear and not technical, but there are some steep and rocky sections. So, good hiking shoes with tread are advisable. I wear Merrell shoes myself, but flip-flops are absolutely out of the question here. Also, bring plenty of water, because there are no facilities to refill your supplies along the way. A small backpack with some snacks, a towel, and sun cream always comes in handy. After about an hour, you will reach the little beach, Cala Barranco de Maro. This is a less accessible beach that you can reach via a steep path from the main route, or by kayak. At low tide, you can walk through a small tunnel to an even smaller beach, where the waves are still calm in the morning. The water there is crystal clear and perfect for a quick cool-down. Many local fishing boats are moored here during the season. There is no catering here, so bringing a picnic is a smart idea. One of the highlights of this route is the view of the Torre de Maro, a historic watchtower on top of the cliffs. From here you have panoramic views of the coastline and, on a clear day, even as far as the coast of Africa. The tower itself is not accessible, but the area around it offers countless places to enjoy the view and take a break. This hike is an excellent way to experience the rugged beauty of the Nerja coast, away from the crowds. This walk ends at Playa el Cañuelo, a secluded beach with a small, simple 'chiringuito' that is open in season. You can take a taxi back to Maro from here, the natural park bus (high season only, check times), or walk the whole way back. If you are planning to walk back in the afternoon, it is wise to start early in the morning to avoid the midday heat. The path in April, before the peak season, is wonderfully quiet. ### Alternative routes around Nerja on May 1st With Labour Day coming up, and knowing that popular spots like the Río Chillar get absolutely swamped then, I have explored some alternatives that avoid the crowds. One of them is the trek along the Alberca Baja, an old irrigation channel. You start in Maro, near the caves' car park. From there, you walk up a wider unpaved road, past fruit trees and avocado plantations, until you reach the channel path. This path follows the contour of the hill and offers constant views of the coastline. The nice thing is that it stays relatively flat. About halfway, you will find a small, historic aqueduct structure where the water flows from one channel to another. The path ends at a crossroads. You can take a path back down to the N-340 and walk back to Maro from there. The total distance is about 7 kilometers. Another option is the Ruta de los Molinos de Papel, the "Route of the Paper Mills." This is a relatively unknown hike that starts from Nerja, on the eastern side of town, past the cemetery. You follow a path that descends to the riverbed of the Río de la Miel. Here you will find remains of old water mills that were once used for paper production. The path is a bit rougher in places and less maintained than the main routes, which adds to the adventurous vibe. You can follow the riverbed, sometimes jumping over stones, sometimes through shallow water. Eventually, you will come to a secluded beach with some ruins, probably from an old customs house. The way back is simply the same route in reverse. For this route, good waterproof footwear is advisable. A third, shorter but surprisingly rewarding walk, is the one to the Torre de Maro. This tower is on a cliff east of Maro and you can reach it via an unpaved path that starts just outside the village. The path is easy to walk and rises gradually. The reward is a panoramic view of the entire coastline, from Nerja all the way to the cliffs of Cerro Gordo. There are several small viewpoints here where you can enjoy the surroundings undisturbed. These alternatives each offer a unique experience and avoid the crowds you would find elsewhere on May 1st. The Torre de Maro is a quick, rewarding trip.