The Río Chillar

 Normally, I avoid walking in summer. At thirty to thirty-five degrees, it's just not fun, especially in full sun. But the Río Chillar is different. You can even go there in July and August. This isn't a beach day; it's [walking through](/en/blog/walking-through-rio-chillar-gorge) a river. And yes, that means wet feet. ### Preparing for Río Chillar The Río Chillar is a popular river walk, and rightly so. You really do walk through the water. That might sound adventurous, and it is, but it does require some preparation. The most important thing: shoes. You can leave regular trainers at home. They'll soak up water and fall apart. Water sandals or special aqua shoes will really do you a favor. Crocs are okay too, but you'll slip more easily. A pair of sturdy hiking sandals with a good sole is ideal. Don't forget a backpack with plenty of water and some snacks either. You'll be on the go for a few hours. Also, and this is crucial in summer, lather up with sunscreen. Even though you're walking through water and there are shaded spots, the sun in the more open parts can be relentless. A cap or hat isn't a luxury either. I always pack a waterproof bag for my phone and keys myself, because you never know when you might slip.  ### Your starting point and the route The starting point of the Río Chillar walk is behind the old paper factory, just outside Nerja. You can get there by car, but especially in high season, the road around it fills up quickly. There's parking, and it's free, but don't expect to park right at the entrance. Sometimes you'll be half a kilometer away and have to walk a bit to get to the actual start of the path. The route itself is distinctive: you follow the river. Literally. The path *is* the riverbed. The first twenty minutes are, honestly, not very spectacular. You walk among dog walkers and some stalls selling sandwiches and drinks. It gives a bit of a fairground feeling, but don't let that put you off. This is the 'warm-up section', so be patient. The real beauty starts a bit further on. Keep following the river and you'll get deeper and deeper into the gorge. The surroundings quickly change from open and 'urban' to wilder and more natural. You'll also immediately feel why this walk is so popular here. The first hour is relatively easy, with shallow spots you can easily wade through. No difficult climbs or treacherous rapids.  ### The most beautiful parts and turning points When the gorge starts to narrow, after about an hour to an hour and a half of walking, you'll understand why so many people do the Río Chillar. The rock walls get higher, the water is clearer, and there are little waterfalls and natural swimming pools everywhere. These are the Cahorros narrows, and many people use this as a perfect turning point if they don't want to spend a whole day in the river. For those who want to go longer, the path continues and you eventually reach bigger waterfalls and swimming spots. The most impressive are the Vado de los Patos, or the Duck Pond. It's all doable, but the ground is slippery due to the stones in the riverbed. Take your time and watch where you put your feet. A fall can easily happen, and you're far from medical help. Beyond the Cahorros narrows, you can go even further, towards the Fabrica de la Luz, the old electricity factory. This is a serious day trip, often about eight kilometers one way. If you're considering going that far: leave early. Especially in summer, because after about four hours you're often walking back in full sun and you'll really feel that then. ### What to watch out for (and the weather) The Río Chillar is officially accessible from June to September, sometimes until October, depending on the weather and water levels. in winter and spring, the river can be too high after rainfall, and then the route is closed. According to the authorities, it's important to take the warnings seriously. It can then be dangerous to continue, especially with children. So, always check the local weather forecasts and any warnings before you set off. Another tip: go early. Around nine or nine-thirty, you'll beat the crowds. Most Spaniards only start this kind of activity around eleven in summer. That way, you'll have the most beautiful parts pretty much to yourself before the masses arrive. I saw friends just last March who wanted to do the walk, and the river was indeed closed then. The Komoot app often gives current information about these kinds of routes here; I always check the comments there before heading out myself. The water is usually nice and cool, which is a welcome change from the heat in July. The depth varies from ankle-deep to sometimes hip-deep, depending on the season and recent rainfall. In some places, you'll actually have to swim, so make sure your stuff is packed waterproof. It's a unique way to cool down and enjoy the spectacular nature at the same time. Ideal for the whole family, as long as you pay close attention to the warnings. Definitely don't bring anything heavy for lunch and eat it at the end of the walk. Or, even better, have a delicious bocadillo in Nerja afterwards. You've earned it. ### Sounds of the river and nature Once you're past the initial section, where you mostly hear chatter and kids playing, the acoustics of the Río Chillar change. It becomes calmer. You hear the constant trickling of the water over the smooth stones, a soft rustle that seems to take the heat out of the air. Between the high rock walls, the river creates its own concert. Now and then, the clear song of a finch or the cawing of a magpie interrupts the serene calm. I've even heard the soft plop of a small trout jumping out of the water, looking for an insect. You breathe in the fresh, moist air, a subtle scent of wet earth and water plants, more refreshing than the dry heat of the city. It's an oasis for your ears and nose, truly an experience. ### Food, drinks, and small pleasures Don't forget to bring small, energy-giving snacks that can handle water. Think dried fruit, nuts, or an energy bar in waterproof packaging. And water, lots of water! The coolness of the river water is tempting, but drinking from the river isn't a good idea. I always bring a metal water bottle myself; the water stays cool longer then. After a few hours of walking, the craving for salt is often strong, so a small bag of crisps or salty biscuits can work wonders. Find a nice spot on a flat rock, for example after the Vado de los Patos, and enjoy your well-deserved break. Feel the sun dry on your skin while you eat your sandwich, listen to the water, and watch the dragonflies skim over the surface. Those small moments of peace and a simple meal complete the experience. It feels like a mini-holiday within your walk. ### An alternative If the Río Chillar isn't possible due to circumstances, or if you're a bit less adventurous, there are luckily plenty of alternatives around Nerja. I've written before about the different day trips around Nerja, like the coastal paths of Acantilados Maro-Cerro Gordo. Those are also beautiful and offer spectacular views over the cliffs and the sea. It's a different kind of walk, less water, more views. Perfect if the river is too high. Another option is the Pico del Cielo walk, to the highest mountain above Nerja. That's a serious challenge, about 20 kilometers return with 1400 meters of ascent, but the view over the Costa del Sol and even Africa on clear days is unparalleled. That's really something for the early morning, and only if you're an experienced walker. This isn't a walk for bright summer sun, unless you really start at six. Whatever you choose: this region has plenty to offer for every hiking enthusiast. Even in summer. Go on a weekday morning, then you'll have the most beautiful parts almost to yourself.